Apaneca means 'river of the wind' in Nahuatl, and there is a definite cooling in the air in El Salvador's second-highest town (1450m). One of the country's prettiest places to visit, its cobbled streets and colorful adobe houses are blissfully peaceful during the week, but come alive with increasing numbers of visitors on weekends. Apaneca's cottage craft industry is highly revered and the surrounding Sierra Apaneca Ilamatepec is a hiker's paradise.